Sumbanese Woman Weaving

In Eastern Sumba a woman weaves, watched by her son.

Textiles

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1. Extra Large Vintage Chinese Embroidered Shawl. Mid 20th century, silk thread on silk. This is gorgeous, with fine embroidery and exuberant colors. Much of the embroidery is equally fine on both sides. There is a label attached indicating that it was stored in the fur vaults at Gimbel's Department Store in the mid-1900s. One small area of embroidery (about 8" square) has some pulls and needs to be tightened up (see photo #11). The shawl itself is 65" (165 cm.) square; the hand knotted fringe is another 24". SOLD.
2. Sumatran Jacket. Ca. 1900, Lampung, South Sumatra. Very fine cotton embroidered with tiny mirrors, decorated with cowries, with a fine supplementary weft panel on the back. Width: 56" (142 cm.) Height 11 1/2" (29 cm.) $650.
3. Central Asian Window Panel. Bokhara, early 20th century. A silk central panel with squares of various materials -- some silk, some cotton, some embroidered. With a printed cotton backing. Length 50" (127cm.), width 40"(102cm.) $650.
4. Chaksey Pangkep. Bhutan, cotton supplementary weft. Used as a lap cloth or to cover the arm while serving the nobility. This example is of the type known as Chukep because of its intricate and varied weaving. Width 40", length 80". SOLD.
5. Phulkari Headcloth. Mid 20th century, silk on cotton. Punjab area, India or Pakistan. "Phulkari", literally "flower work" is worked from the reverse, leaving a dense pattern on one side and very little on the other. Silk floss threads, imported from Afghanistan and Kashmir, are essential to the rich effect. Width 48", length 90". Very good condition with two spots of slight wear. SOLD.
6. Swat Valley Bodice. Silk thread on cotton. Swat Valley, Pakistan, ca. 1900. Very fine embroidery in geometric patterns and decorated with valuable trade items such as seed beads, mother-of-pearl buttons and a zipper. Width 13" (33 cm.), height 15" (38 cm.) $495.
7. Bright Embroidered Hair Decoration. Tibet. Cotton embroidered with silk thread. Two smiling snow lions at the top, then a very fine geometric section, then alternating panels of stripes and flowers on two cotton strips that are attached to a woman's braids. Each 45" (115 cm.) $295.
8. Turkoman Horse Decoration. Cotton. Central Asia, mid-20th century. Fine embroidery in geometric designs. For a horse in a parade. Length of bottom of the V: 25" (63 cm.), length of the top: 19" (48 cm.) $150.
9. Banjara Ceremonial Cloth. India. Mid-20th century. Cotton with mirrors and shells. Very fine embroidery and applique used to cover offerings during ceremonies. Each intricate design in the center has a ritual meaning while the circles and the 4 mirrors around the outside have a protective purpose. This bag has been lined and a wool strap attached. Excellent condition. 32" x 36" (81 cm. x 91 cm.) SOLD.
10. Lao Door or Wall Hanging. Natural cotton. Woven on a simple backstrap loom in supplementary weft technique by a young girl, probably for her dowry. Some wear in the center (visible in photo on the 3rd page). Length 61", width 19". $195.
11. Antique Lao Door or Wall Hanging. Natural cotton. Woven on a simple backstrap loom in supplementary weft technique with both geometric and animal designs. 19th century, with quite a lot of wear. Length 56", width 20". $125.
12. Tibetan Hair Decoration. Cotton. A pair of heavy (4 layers of fabric) embroidered and appliqued strips that are worn buttoned into the top of a woman's braids. Wonderful embroidery, some wear at the edges. Length (each) 40", width 4". $250.
13. Tibetan Necromancer's Apron. Brocade with fringe. Made to be worn under a bone apron by an Oracle or necromancer during tantric rituals. We bought this in Lhasa in the Barkhor market around the Jokhang temple. 26" (62 cm.) square. SOLD.
14. Ancestor Banner. Laos, Supplementary weft weave on cotton with silk thread. 140" (355 cm.) long, 24" (61 cm.) wide. We bought this in Luang Prabang in Laos 15 years ago. Every inch is covered in fine embroidery done in bright silk on cotton. Made to be given to a Buddhist temple in honor of an ancestor, enabling them to pull themselves up to heaven. $795.
15. Yao Hilltribe Shaman's Skirt Thailand, mid-20th century. Silk with cotton lining and waistband. Length of waistband 47" (120 cm.), from top of waistband to hem 37 1/2" (94 cm.), measurement along the hem 97" (246 cm.). Two panels embroidered with a lion, phoenix, books and a vase. Hand stitched, the two main panels were once edged with black silk, now worn away. $375.

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